We are often asked whether or not it is possible to add an LCD counter to the Techno Powerball to supplement the one actually built into the rotor on this model.

Well, in fact, it is possible to add a counter to the Techno and therefore it is an option that you can specify when ordering this product if required.

However, the exciting Techno generates a heavy magnetic field during operation which can otherwise effect the very [accurate] performance of our 'accura' range of counters, sometimes invalidating the score you have achieved - (you have been warned :-)

Fault: Will show a dead counter display / no digits batteries may be exhausted.

Solution: Remove the counter from the ball, remove the 6 small screws on the rear board and replace the two batteries.

Detailed Explanation: Please remove the counter from the top of the ball.

This can be done using either your finger nail, a small flat headed screw driver or knife blade (exercise care while using either tool!) the counter is anchored to the ball at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions by two plastic tabs (these are molded to the body of the counter)  please insert the tool/nail under the counter body at either of these points and lift upward with a quick, firm action  the counter should pop off.

Fig A: The Powerball counter unit

The counter on your Powerball is designed to power down automatically if rotor rotation hasn't been detected for a period exceeding 40 seconds. This feature gives the batteries an expected lifespan of 3-4 years of normal [powerball] use.

In the event that one or both batteries are exhausted however, changing them is actually quite an easy task;

1. On the back of the counter (the circuit board side) you'll notice 6 small screws (as illustrated in Fig.B)

Fig B: rear of Powerball counter unit

2. You will need to obtain a tiny star (philips) screwdriver and remove these( Fig.C)

Fig C: Removing screws from counter unit

Fig D: Counter screws removed

3. The circuit board will now come away from the counter body (Fig.E)

Fig E: Counter unit now disassembled

4. You'll see the two small batteries (GP377 if your counter is grey in colour / GP392 if the counter is white)

5. If you have a voltage meter, conduct a test the voltage should read between 1.4 and 1.59 on each cell any lower and there is a risk that the display will begin to fade. These batteries are easily found in any jeweler or office equipment store if required.

Replace and reinstall the screws.

Fault: The counter can sometimes generate an inaccurate or corrupt score ranging from 15,000 - 18,000rpm

Solution: Reset the counter unit (unlikely to be a new World record, Sorry!)

Detailed Explanation: The Accura digital display supplied with your Powerball is an extremely precise counter which will register the rotor speed accurately throughout the spin range up to an astonishing 19,999rpm.

As with all logic based devices however, it may, on a very rare occasion, suffer a corruption in terms of the manner in which the data received is interpreted or processed. Unless the counter is genuinely faulty, such a corruption may only occur once in every 1000 spins (if at all).

Should, however, you find yourself victim of such an instance, you may be pleasantly surprised to note on your counter display, a score reading of, for example, 18351rpm or 17623 or, in fact, any score within a range of 15360 right up to 18998rpm.

I would particularly highlight the score of 15360rpm as it is indeed the most popular one we have seen resulting from this form of data corruption and has been the cause for many a potential vapor lock or coronary failure around the globe as the excited recipient contemplated the massive achievement displayed before them (before being instantly deflated by reading this FAQ! )

So, in the event that you see a score that is above 15,000rpm on your Powerball, have a quick click here and take a listen to what a Powerball should sound like at 15,000rpm+ and then contemplate your next course of action;

1. Take a snap if the score immediately. You will need to use a camera that can provide us with an image that will be at least 600 x 600 pixels in size.
2. If the score is going to eventually find itself in one of the Top 10 slots on the Top 100 scoreboard then we will need you to also provide us with a video clip of you achieving a score at least 98% or higher of the value of the one you are presenting to us for approval. (For example: if the score in your image was 15000rpm then we would need you to capture a short video clip where the counter has been zeroed and the ball spun up to a minimum 14700rpm and where the counter display is clearly visible with that score.)
3. On receipt of these two items, we will then begin analysis of the score submission and contact you in due course.

Good luck!

Fault: The reed switch on the counter which registers the pulses coming from the magnet in the rotor is faulty or the software in the counter's EPROM has become corrupted.

Solution: Lift the counter from the ball, remove the circuit board from the rear of the counter which effectively resets the EPROM

Detailed Description: Should you power up the counter and discover that it is no longer registering the revolutions of the rotor, there are two possible faults;

1. The little reed switch built into the counter has been damaged from a drop or sudden, hard shock to the body of the sphere. There is no effective repair for this and you will require a new counter.
2. The software which converts the magnetic pulses from the rotor into your score on the display has become temporarily corrupted and as a result, the display will remain at "0" regardless of how fast you spin the ball!

There is a solution to the second fault;

Remove the counter (for details on how to do this, please click here). Remove the 6 little fixing screws and pull the board away from the counters body. This will serve to remove the power from the boards components.

After 30 seconds have elapsed, reattach the board and replace the 6 screws.

Attach the counter to the ball and the fault should be cured. In the event that this solution fails, please request a new counter for your ball.

Fault: Unit needs to be opened for the purposes of cleaning or replacing the rotor support band.

Solution: Follow the following video links which will illustrate the two recommended ways to open the ball: 1) Using a Vise
2) Using the hand

Detailed Explanation: From time to time, you may find it of some benefit to be able to open your Powerball up... whether to give him a quick clean out or simply to replace a worn component inside.

The outer sphere shell is comprised of two separate halves, both of which have been precision manufactured to allow them "snap" perfectly together tightly without the need for glue or screws. (There are two screws on the circumference by the way, but these are more cosmetic than anything else and can be discarded if required without causing any harm to the ball afterward).

The fastest way of opening these halves once they have been joined is to squeeze them at the point at which they meet if this is done as shown in the links above or as recommended below, the two halves will "pop" audibly and establish themselves into such a position that you can grasp each half with your fingers and pull them apart with ease. You will easily see when you have been successful in this task as the gap between both halves (the little "valley" running all around the equator line of the ball into which the ridge of the rubber grip band locates), will have increased from approximately 3mm to 5mm.

Opening using the Vise:

The quickest way is to lift the rubber grip band slightly at exactly the points where there is no text (that is, at the junction of where the front and back text meets on both sides see fig A as you can see, there is just black space at these 2 points).

Fig A: Screw positions

This will expose the 2 tiny screws on each side without you having to go to the bother to take the band off completely (note: we recommend that you leave the band on the ball at all times while doing this exercise as it will help to protect the surface of the sphere from being scratched)

Fig B: Screws exposed by lifting grip-band

Remove these screws and put them to one side.

Remove the digital counter or hard plastic cap (depending on the model powerball you own both of these items are attached to the sphere by means of 2 solid plastic clips at their 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and can be prised off easily by using your nail or a flat headed screwdriver at the end just above where the two holes for the wrist cord are on the spheres body as in Fig C. a quick upward motion will remove it easily.

Fig C: Digital counter

Once you have removed the counter or cap, please take the rotor and ensure that either end of the metal axle is pointing down toward those two holes in the spheres surface as in Fig D  this is important as it will ensure that when you are squeezing the sphere in the vise that you do not warp the axle with the pressure. The positions of the screw holes are indicated in the image below.

Fig D: Rotor aligned with screw holes

Now, take the Powerball and put him into the vise (fig D) with the jaws of the [vise] resting against these 'blank' areas on the band (where you have just removed the screws from).

Put the ball down into the vise so that the exact middle or 'equator' of the sphere is sitting snugly in the middle of the jaw surface. Gently close the vise to a point where the ball is now firmly supported. At this point, depending on what kind of a vise you it will literally take just an extra 1/2 turn to maybe a full turn (if the vise gearing is different to our own), and you will hear that 'pop' I am referring to.

Fig E: Powerball sitting in a bench vise

In truth, if your vise is really different to ours, it doesn't matter, just turn the handle until you hear the 'pop' - the material in your Powerball is extremely strong and will flex considerably before it breaks so don't worry about causing harm - you won't unless you are deliberately setting out to crush the little guy in there!

Once you hear the "pop", take him out and you will now be able to manually separate the 2 halves.

Do the work required and when ready simply press the two halves together with your hands - it will 'snap' back together and your work is done.

Opening using your hand:

Once again, lift the rubber grip band slightly at exactly the points where there is no text (that is, at the junction of where the front and back text meets on both sides see Fig 1A as you can see, there is just a blank space at these 2 points).

Fig 1A: Screw positions

This will expose the 2 tiny screws on each side without you having to go to the bother to take the band off completely (note: we recommend that you leave the band on the ball at all times while doing this exercise as it will help to protect the surface of the sphere from being scratched)

Fig 2B: Screws exposed by lifting grip-band

Remove these screws and put them to one side.

Remove the digital counter or hard plastic cap (depending on the model powerball you own both of these items are attached to the sphere by means of 2 solid plastic clips at their 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and can be prised off easily by using your nail or a flat headed screwdriver at the end just above where the two holes for the wrist cord are on the spheres body as in Fig 2C. a quick upward motion will remove it easily.

Fig C: Digital counter

Once you have removed the counter or cap, please take the rotor and ensure that either end of the metal axle is pointing down toward those two holes in the spheres surface as in Fig 2D this will keep the axle in a suitable position for what happens next. Take the Powerball and position it so that one of the empty screw holes is sitting on a hard surface such as a table or solid bench. Please leave the grip band on during this process.

Fig D: Rotor aligned with screw holes

The remaining empty screw hole will now be facing the ceiling.

Holding the ball with one hand, curl up your other hand into a fist and slam it down onto this [empty] screw hole like as if you were angry and were slamming your hand on the desk!! (using the soft under part of the hand as opposed to the knuckles!) please refer to Fig 2E.

Fig 2E: Opening the ball with your hand

This is a similar action to using a vise and should see the two halves 'pop' slightly apart allowing you to open them with your hand thereafter one smart "slap" is all that it takes.

Disclaimer: please be careful about how hard you hit the ball! It is important that you do not hurt or damage your hand in the process!

Finally, if you have superhuman strength like Akis (our World record holder!) you will actually be able to pop open your Powerball by simply squeezing him together between your hands and locking your fingers. I have seen him do this but am unable to master the technique myself!

Reason: It is likely that there is foreign matter/dirt on the internal surface area of the sphere over which the rotor support band is sitting

Solution: Open the sphere shell and clean the internal surface areas.

Detailed Explanation: When you first take the ball from its box, you will note the perfectly fluid and silky action with which it operates - the rotor whirr's away and there is no noise, (bar that glorious 'jet fighter' sound as the speed increases..!)

After a few weeks of use however, this lovely fluid movement and silent rotation can end up being replaced by a noisy, gravely movement, which, although still yielding out much the same torque, doesn't offer as much pleasure of use as from when it was new and you probably wonder just what might be wrong with it all?

Well, there are two likely causes for this;

1. The ball is being used in a dusty environment and/or is being discarded on a carpet/fibre based surface which is allowing it to ingest fibres/foreign matter into the rotor support band cavity during use. Other examples of this is where the user is choosing to start the ball by running the rotor along a trouser leg.
   
   While not causing an immediate negative result, the effects of this are cumulative and will harm the friction/smoothness of the ball in the long term - the practice is best avoided.
2. Using the ball for prolonged periods without properly supporting the sphere while the rotor is in motion.

This is the most common cause of the rough sounding Powerball.

A perfect example is as follows;

The Powerballer takes the speed of his gyro up to, say, 12,000rpm.

Having been suitably pulverized by the inertia coming from the ball at such speeds (particularly if you are new to the sport and haven’t yet developed the strength and stamina required to control the ball at these speeds), the hand/ wrist/ arm of our Powerballing friend quickly become tired causing him to back off the run while simultaneously easing his firm grip on the sphere.

Now, despite the fact that the rotor itself is absolutely perfect in its balance, it is still putting out considerable inertia as it slows down. This 'gyroscopic torque' is transmitted directly into the outer sphere, which is now sitting quite loosely in the Powerballers hand and begins to resonate or shake in sympathy with the slowing rotor (which itself will begin to 'jarr' or grate inside the sphere...making that awful rattling noise as the speed is violently scrubbed off as a result!).

The rotor is supported on a hardened steel axle which itself sits into a smooth polycarbonate support ring - this support ring is then sandwiched in between the lips of the two halves of the outer sphere - in a cavity of about 5 mm in height (this cavity, by the way, is what allows that 'play' in the rotor when the ball is stationary). 

Each time the ball is allowed to slow down in this 'unsupported' manner and makes that grating noise as a result, tiny fragments of plastic are shed from that support band as it revolves around inside which, over a period of time will eventually cause that rough noise you are currently hearing in those older or incorrectly used balls.

In this instance, what can also happen is that the metal axle - rotor support band) will begin to enlarge the hole(s) in the plastic rotor support band from perfect circles into larger oval shaped holes which results in an unpleasant play in the rotor and helps to slightly reduce the overall speed it can achieve.

The key, therefore, is to keep a firm grip on your Powerball at all times during which the rotor is spinning.

There are several solutions to cure the problem:

1. Get a high pressure air source, remove the counter and while the rotor is spinning at around 5k, blast the air jet into the top of the ball - this will serve to dislodge the plastic dust that has built up inside the cavity.
2. Remove the counter and submerge the ball in warm water (make sure there is no soap or contaminants in the water) - rotate the rotor several times to agitate the internal surfaces and help dispel any foreign matter. Remove the ball and all to dry over a radiator - it will speed up the process if you spin the rotor as normal.
3. 3. Open the sphere (using the following technique) and carefully clean all the inner surfaces with a soft dry cloth.

(NOTE, Your Powerball should never be lubricated.... ever! That will kill it instantly!)

Reason: You have been overtraining with the sphere (see also "My Powerball won’t spin past 5000rpm")

Solution: Reduce your training sessions either in volume or duration.

Detailed Explanation: Like any form of exercise, it is easily possible to overtrain with your Powerball.

In truth, there is no specific [training] schedule timeframe that we can recommend each day; our simple advise is to never exceed your own abilities on the splendid sphere.

Each user is unique and will be able to tolerate a longer or shorter training schedule than another. (Speed ability is not linked to physical arm size either though it does help to have substantial arms and wrists when seeking those elusive high scores.)

For example, we ourselves have regularly spent up to 9 hours each day, from Thursday to Sunday, spinning furiously while demonstrating Powerball at a show without suffering any discomfort or harmful side effect.

Indeed, from my own personal experience, I have always managed my very best scoring during such events on the very last day as my arms, traditionally used to a mere 10-15 minutes work on the sphere each day while sitting in front of my computer, firm up nicely as a result of the hammering received over the 9hr days.

On the contrary, several colleagues will be ready to have their arms amputated on these final days and will be posting miserable scores, sometimes up to 25% less than their personal bests!

If you are finding yourself in a position whereby you have achieved a 13k score and now, a couple of days later, you are struggling to hit 11k or 12k then it is our advice that you take a break from the all out score efforts and settle into some endurance work where you run the ball for sessions of up to 10 minutes at perhaps 60% - 70% of your personal best... after one week of this training, we recommend a 1-2 day break from the ball entirely followed by a "hot" session where you really go all out for a good score! Following this simple routine will yield new personal bests for 95% of players.

Reason: The oil has instantly destroyed the internal friction in your Powerball and friction between the rotor support band and the internal sphere surface is that one vital characteristic which helps to convert your wrist action into rotor speed!

Solution: Open the Powerball and clean ALL component surface areas with a pure isopropyl alcohol solution.

Detailed Explanation: The principle of operation on your Powerball is based on the resistance that occurs between the rotor support band and the surface of the inner sphere in which it resides - if this resistance is minimised by even a tiny application of oil then the ball will no longer respond to your wrist movements and rotor will spin lifelessly inside the sphere (generally going nowhere and making you very frustrated indeed!)

If something like this has occurred then you've got to open the ball up (as indicated here) and take it apart to base component level; get some pure alcohol and start cleaning each and every component surface but paying particular attention to the entire rotor support ring and the actual surface areas on the inner sphere on which the rotor support band sits. Make sure you use a pure, non solvent solution (preferably alcohol based to ensure that it evaporates after the process and leaves no residues behind) otherwise you will melt the surface areas.

So I repeat...no oil...ever!

Reason: The friction between the rotor support band and the internal surface of the sphere shell has been damaged / altered in some way.

Solution: Open the sphere shell and clean all inner surfaces

Detailed Explanation: Every new Powerball has a perfect ‘bite’ - that almost perfect resistance to your efforts you’ll feel as the rotor support band revolves smoothly around the internal platform on which it sits, driving the rotor speed ever higher with each turn.

If you use the Powerball correctly and as instructed, maintaining a firm grip on the ball at all times during which the rotor is spinning, then this perfect resistance will remain for many years.

If, however, you fail to grip the ball FIRMLY during use, then the outer sphere shell will be free to resonate in sympathy with the fierce inertia being generated by the fast spinning, perfectly balanced rotor (this is not a flaw in the ball by the way), a process which has a very negative effect on the actual rotor support band (the white polycarbonate ring which fits around the rotor inside the sphere) and one which will cause minor wear on the band every time this occurs.

The result of this wear can be seen as a thin layer of very fine plastic ‘powder’ which, over time, will coat the internal platter on which the rotor support band sits and adversely affect the perfect frictional resistance between the band and the sphere surface, ultimately causing a reduction in the overall speeds achievable on the ball.

Fig A: Dust from the rotor support band on the lower sphere half

(This dust deposit can begin to take place after only a few short days of use, again, depending on how the ball is operated, so product age is often immaterial)

Worse still, the lovely creamy movement of the ball will diminish and you’ll be left with a ball which feels slightly rougher and is certainly noisier than it otherwise should be.

At the most extreme end of this fault spectrum, the worst possible scenario is that, over time, the metal axle of the rotor will end up literally ‘vulcanising’ this plastic dust down into the surface of the inner sphere as it spins around with each turn, thus altering dramatically, the perfect surface harmony and therefore the overall frictional resistance between the rotor support band and the sphere and killing any opportunity to achieve a decent speed on the ball in the future.

In such cases, you will be left with a ball which almost feels as if it has been oiled inside (a definite no no!!) and which will yield miserable scores (often less than 5000rpm!) to even the most skilled operators.

If you have been guilty of operating the ball while not keeping it firmly gripped at all times then the cure for this problem is actually quite simple;

Open the ball up (using the following guidelines) and give all inner surfaces a good clean with a soft, dry cloth - this will give an instant performance boost.

Fig B: Use a soft dry cloth to clean the inner parts

In extreme cases, (generally in older balls, where this condition has been allowed to prosper unchecked for a lengthy period) where the surface area has become embedded/pitted with the resulting plastic shrapnel from the support band, a very fine sandpaper rubbed over the platter surface will also help to rejuvenate the ball’s performance in an instant (P180 grade sandpaper or even a fine emery paper)

Finally, please be advised that the same performance deterioration may also result from the ingression of foreign matter into the sphere via the exposed area on the base of the ball over time - dust, carpet/clothing fibre, tips of cords etc. these can all be ingested into the chamber in which the rotor support band rotates and cause an alteration in the frictional relationship between the rotor support band and the sphere and cause a significant drop off in speed.

Once again, if this is found to be the case, simply open the sphere shell and clean all surface areas - this should return the ball to factory condition after a few spins (you may find performance slightly down on previous top speeds while the parts begin to 'bed' in once again but this will be seen to quickly improve after a few short sessions)

Fault: The grip band has become stretched or oiled and slides up on the sphere once the rotor speed builds to a high level.

Solution: Wash the grip band in warm detergent based water.

Detailed Explanation: Using a Powerball over an extended period of time can result in the [otherwise tight] rubber grip band which runs around the spheres equator becoming loose and sloppy.

Whether this actually happens (or not!) is based on;

1. How sweaty your hands are in general
2. How powerful your actual grip is

If your hands are naturally clammy/sweaty then, over time, these body oils will penetrate the band and cause it to loosen its otherwise sticky grip on the surface of the sphere. If this does occur on your Powerball then the simple solution is to remove the band and put it into the clothes machine with the next wash or into a sink of hot water with some grease eating washing up liquid. You need to retrieve the nice, "sticky" characteristic it had when new!

Likewise, if your general grip is poor (this will improve by using the Powerball by the way!) then you will find that the ball squirms and wriggles in your hand as the inertia builds, causing the grip band to slip upward or downward on the sphere.

Over time, this will serve to loosen the tightness of the band and it will become sloppy in its ability to fasten itself to the sphere's surface.

Once again, a quick boil in the washing machine will return the band to its original tight state!

Powerball's remarkable sports, fitness and rehabilitation qualities coupled to the pure, addictive fun that it creates during use all make for a very exciting 'me too' experience which has seen product sales literally skyrocket all over the world.

A popular way to purchase the shiny sphere is to group together with several friends and submit to us an order for a mixed selection of balls (11+ pieces) which will automatically allow you to enjoy a substantial on each individual unit when compared to purchasing them at their 1, 2 piece pricing in the webstore here.

The simplest way to proceed with this is for you to contact us here and let us know the country from which you are purchasing and also the preferred breakdown of Powerball models you wish to purchase.

We will address your query by return and hopefully offer you some valuable savings on individual ball prices.

We can offer you several options in this case, depending on the quantity of Powerballs you require.

Please contact us here giving further details of your specific requirement in this regard and we will be pleased to discuss teh options available to you in further detail.

Fault: The rotor on your Neon or Techno Powerball has been subjected to a severe shock or drop which has resulted in the failure of the LEDs on the rotor

Solution: Open the ball and replace the rotor

Detailed Explanation: The LEDs which create the fantastic light effects on both the Neon and Techno Powerball models are powered by a pair of induction coils built into a circuit board on the body of the rotor. The support band on which the rotor is suspended contains a magnetic disc in front of which the two coils are rotated while spinning the Powerball this is what generates the current to power the LEDs.

If the Powerball is dropped or subjected to a severe shock, then the coils can go open circuit and their ability to generate electricity is lost.

In the case of the Techno, there is a small micro switch inside the rotor assembly which may also be otherwise affected in the event of a drop, once again causing a general failure of the 7 LEDs built into the rotor surface.

There is no cure for either of these fault conditions other than for us to supply you with a new rotor.

Please refer to the following information which details how to open your Powerball in order to replace the damaged rotor.

Note: Powerball rotors are extremely durable it is very rare that the LEDs will fail like this.

Reason: Poor wrist rotation / starting technique

Solution: Follow the correct technique as outlined below.

Detailed Explanation: Once you have initially jump started the rotor with the cord (please click on the following video for a visual solution or review the written instructions here) it is important that you synchronise your wrist rotation speed so that it fully aligns with the rotor speed.

From experience, you will see that a good, sharp pull on the cord will leave the rotor spinning at around 2500/3000rpm.

From that point, unless you begin to ‘agitate’ the rotor by rotating your wrist, the rotor speed will begin to die (natural laws of physics!

You therefore must begin rotating your wrist at a slow, steady pace so that it manages to sync perfectly with the spinning rotor in the sphere and helps to both sustain and build its speed.

This is easier to do than it sounds;

If you are a beginner with Powerball, we recommend wide, lazy wrist turns, such as if you were stirring a pot, whisking eggs or waxing a car - about 5/6" in diameter, about 1 or 2 turns each second.

It is all about ‘feel’ - you will immediately know that you are at the correct speed as you will begin to feel a resistance to your wrist rotation efforts (when you are out of sync, there will be no resistance, the rotor may ‘slap’ around noisily inside the sphere and it will feel as if you are just turning your hand around the wrist joint - when in sync however, there will be a pleasant, soothing resistance to your efforts and the Powerball will suddenly feel much heavier in your hand!)

Once you feel this resistance (otherwise known as Gyroscopic Inertia), slowly begin to increase the speed of your wrist rotations (NOTE: it is important that only the wrist rotates - your arm must remain steady and in the one position) - this will serve to increase the actual speed at which the rotor is spinning which, in turn, will increase the resistance being inflicted on your hand/wrist/arm.

Once again, if you are trying to turn your wrist too fast while at these slow starting speeds or, if your turning circles are too small, you will hear (and feel!) the rotor slapping noisily inside the sphere - if this happens, simply slow the speed of your turns or increase the size of the turn (dimensionally) - this will immediately help to bring you back in sync with the spinning rotor and the speed will build proportionally once again.

So remember, if it hits 2000rpm from the pull start and then dies, you are doing it wrong!

For a useful reference, look at the video clip below which will clearly demonstrate the required action.

Reason: The rotor support band had become worn or the rotor itself is somewhat off balance

Solution: Open the ball and replace either component

Detailed Explanation: The rotor is attached to the sphere by means of the rotor support band - a polycarbonate ring onto which the rotor axle is anchored at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock points (see fig. a)

In a new Powerball, or one which has been operated correctly during its lifetime, the steel rotor axle will fit snugly into the rotor support band at both points and there is no play or movement between these two components.

In a powerball which has been allowed to operate without being firmly gripped by the user as the rotor spins however, the inertia created by the fast spinning rotor will cause a subtle resonation within the entire sphere and cause wear at both points in the rotor support band where the axle is seated as a result. Instead of a perfect, tightly fitting circle, the hole into which the axle sits will now be oval in shape and certainly enlarged to some degree, allowing for significant play between the rotor axle and the band and causing those dreadful vibrations in the ball during operation.

There is no cure for this other than replacing the band.

With regards to the rotor integrity - it has happened, but is extremely rare, that the rotor itself can become off balance.

Given that each rotor is built around a solid steel axle and is precisely balanced during the manufacturing process, the most likely reason for one to run off balance will be as a result of a severe fall onto a solid surface where the sheer deadweight of the rotor mass will end up warping the axle and cause it to spin erratically.

Again, there is no cure for this other than replacement.

Finally, if you have examined the rotor and it appears to be spinning correctly, please take a closer look at the plastic vanes on the rotor body - it may be that one of these has cracked and is upsetting the perfect balance of the rotor as a result. Once again, replacement will be the necessary solution.

Reason: This is a natural characteristic of the Powerball and is not a fault condition

Solution: N/A

Detailed Explanation: Your new Powerball is a precision instrument which has been manufactured to the highest standards and fully hand assembled to ensure superlative quality.

The principle of its design lies in a perfectly balanced rotor supported on a circular band which in turn is suspended in a cavity created by a 'lip' on the top and bottom halves of the outer sphere. The Cavity is about 4mm in height while the thickness of the rotor support band is only 2mm, leaving an up/down 'play' in the rotor of about 2mm.

When the rotor is sitting stationary, you can feel this "play" by gently pushing the rotor up into the ball and letting it go again - it will rattle gently in sympathy with each push and give the impression that there is a fault in your beloved Powerball.

Not so!

There may be play while the rotor sits stationary, but put it in motion and it will tighten up into a perfectly smooth and creamy movement that almost defies belief...the play that exists when the unit is sitting idle disappears completely as the rotor becomes suspended by the principle of precession as faster and faster it spins in your hand!

That internal cavity has been designed to allow just the right amount of friction between the smooth inner surface of the sphere and the rotor support band as you rotate your wrist to pull on speed.

If that inner cavity was too narrow, it wouldn't be possible to build speed in the ball, if it was too wide then the same would occur - no friction between the polycarbonate rotor support band the inner surface of your gyro...therefore no speed in the rotor itself (same reason why you should never oil your Powerball - all the friction would instantly disappear and the rotor would go nowhere!)

Please click here to take a closer look at the inner components referred to above - it will give you a better idea of how your Powerball works.

The moral of this particular story therefore is that if your Powerball shakes, rattles or rolls while stationary in your hand...and you haven't dropped or generally abused him, all is well and there is no reason to worry.